Meet for Intermediate and Advanced climbers
Venue
Boulder Ruckle is the home of adventure climbing in Swanage, big pitches, huge overhangs, tidal , extreme JOY! A cliff for which Swanage is rightly famous.
Boulder Ruckle is tidal, so we have chosen a 28/5/22 for its high tide 08:42 (1.9m) and 20:58(2.0m) low 15:48(0.8m), which will mandate climbing around Marmolata in the morning at least.
Approach is by abseil and there is no other way out than to climb one of the routes. Boulder Ruckle is exceptionally good in the VS, HVS range and has many starred routes at the higher grades.
Suitability
Some of the routes are indirect and multipitch which are not suitable for trios. The routes on this section of cliff are tidal and there are very few escape routes should the climbing be too difficult.
The following skills are pre-requisite:
- Lead or follow VS with confidence
- Abseil safely without oversight
- Rope Climb in the event of problems
- Confidently identify lines from guidebook descriptions
- Traverse loose rock and earth at the top of the routes – accept long run-outs
If you are unsure whether you qualify with these criteria please first get in touch with the committee who will advise.
Advancement
So you have lead a few VSs, are you now an Intermediate climber? Well probably not, but we really want you to advance and use the local crags to their full potential. Sea cliffs are dangerous environments that do not forgive mistakes easily. Climbing in a variety of venues and rock types would certainly build a depth of experience as would climbing at more forgiving sea cliffs such as those in North Pembroke, Devon or South Pembroke or maybe leading a few Joe Brown VSs.
Pair up with an experienced leader on some of our other meets to learn from them. We are all as happy to help improving leaders as we are helping beginners. Ask also how else we might support you.
Meet info
Meet at 10 am at the Durlston Head carpark . If you arrive late then just come along to Marmolata abseil. Do not leave any valuables in the car.
Gear
Dress appropriately and bring many slings, screw-gates, nut key, and any ropes you have. Leaders need enough gear to protect 50 m of climbing which probably amounts to 10-12 extenders, a range of cams, two sets of wires and maybe some hexes. Two 1/2 ropes are needed as some of the belays are on stakes quite a way back.
