A meet for Intermediate and Advanced climbers
Although aspirant ‘Intermediate’ climbers might want to try themselves out at this relatively friendly venue.
Venue
Climbing at Guillemot ledge, whilst not for the uninitiated, is an excellent introduction to the big pitches for which Swanage is rightly famous. The weather on Saturday is warm with a southerly breeze, and Guillemot ledge is non tidal.
Approach is by abseil and there is no other way out than to climb one of the routes. there are a few HS’s but guillemot is exceptionally good in the VS, HVS range and has one of the must tick E2’s in Tudor Rose.
Many of the routes finish in a clean cut quarry so is considered one of the safer Swanage venues.
Suitability
Please be aware that we can only support a very limited number of inexperienced climbers. Some of the routes are indirect and multipitch which are not suitable for trios. So by all means sign up if you are new to Swanage Trad, but please also be prepared to walk if we have insufficient leaders.
The following skills are pre-requisite.
- Lead or follow VS with confidence.
- Abseil safely without oversight
- Rope Climb in the event of problems
Advancement
So you have lead a few VS’s, are you now an Intermediate climber? Well probably not but we really want you to advance and use the local crags to their full potential. Sea cliffs are dangerous environments that do not forgive mistakes easily. Climbing in a variety of venues and rock types would certainly build a depth of experience as would climbing at more forgiving sea cliffs such as those in North Pembroke, Devon or South Pembroke. Leading a few Joe Brown VS’s maybe.
Pair up with an experienced leader on some of our other meets to learn from them. We are all as happy to help improving leaders as we are helping beginners. Ask also how else we might support you.
Meet info
Meet at 10 am at the Spyway Barn Carpark which is at the end of Durnford Dove in Langton Matravers ( follow the track for 150m beyond the end of the houses). Do not leave any valuable in the car.
Gear
Dress appropriately and bring many slings, screw-gates, nut key, and any ropes you have. Leaders need enough gear to protect 50m of climbing which probably amounts to 10-12 extenders, a range of cams, two sets of wires and maybe some hexes. Routes that top out in the lower quarry and shorter. Two 1/2 ropes are needed as some of the belays are on fence posts quite a way back.
