We are returning to the Mendips where a variety of potential crags await. We will be in close proximity to Fairy Cave, Cheddar Gorge and many lesser-travelled esoteric venues for those who want to stray off the beaten path. As such Sport & Trad are both viable options here and there should be something for everyone within a short drive.
Climbing
There are many, many options available depending on your climbing & travel preferences. Some locations require knowledge of abseiling, please check beforehand. A couple of the main crags are outlined below:
Cheddar Gorge (North & South) – A host of sport & trad climbing available, including some decent multipitch. Access for climbing in the gorge can be very sensitive. Be sure to check the BMC’s Regional Access Database (RAD) as climbing in some parts of the gorge is restricted during certain times of the year.
NB: A BMC membership is required to climb in the gorge and they have been known to spot-check. Make sure you have your club membership card with you.
Fairy Cave Quarry – a trad-only quarry, and the closest crag just a 20min walk away. Some fantastic slab climbs amongst some rock of fairly questionable integrity…
Accomodation
We will be staying in the Larkshall Bunkhouse, built & owned by the local caving club. It does tend to have quite an ‘under construction’ feel to it, and some of the mattresses are a little dubious so please set your expectations accordingly, bringing your own sleeping bags & pillows is essential! More details of the venue can be found here
There is a second group booked in the hut for the same weekend. If we fill our spaces camping is available and they are also happy for converted vans to stay on site at the same price.
Equipment
To reiterate, sleeping bag etc is a must!
In terms of climbing gear – the usual harness, helmet, shoes are essential. Trad/sport kit + ropes depending on your plans. The club has some kit available for members to borrow so please complete the online request form if you want to take advantage of this.
Food & Drink
A group meal will be provided on the Saturday night, and basic breakfast (aka porridge) will be available for the Sat & Sun mornings. Dinner on Friday evening is open for debate, although there are a couple of pubs within stumbling distance for those that aren’t eating on the way up.
Please bring lunch & water for each day.
Travel
There is limited parking available at the hut, as always we encourage car sharing and will look to organise nearer the trip.