Peaks Trad at Don Whillans

IMPORTANT UPDATE

Due to the tragic fire in the roaches there has been some concern about where we can stay and where we can climb. Initially we were informed that we could stay in the hut and communications have been kept up with the hut (BMC run) to that effect. Last night (Wed evening) I was informed that we were no longer able to stay.

Alternative accommodation has been sought. It being a bank holiday, the options are limited and Hazel Barrow Farm Campsite is now full. However there is a campsite near Hen Cloud that has space for us.

NEW VENUE – CAMPING – Nr HEN CLOUD

Address:

The Home Stead, Upper Hume, Nr Leek, Staffs ST13 8TY

The campsite is an extension of a farm. The facilities are limited but we do have loos and hot running water as well as drinking water. 

The campsite was recommended by the Roaches Tea Rooms, it has no website and the lady that runs it is hard of hearing, so please be patient with her when you arrive. 

Please see below section about paying and reimbursements – please take cash with you.

What this means for climbing

As you are likely aware a large area of the Roaches is still out of bounds. For the sake of the teams dealing with the fire we should stay well away.

However, this is the peaks and there are plenty of other areas, for instance Hen Cloud and Ramshaw Rocks.

What this means for food

There will be no cooking facilities at the campsite. This will make our group meals quite difficult. Please bare this in mind when deciding what food (or cooker) to bring!

Reimbursement and Costs

The hut will reimburse us for our stay. You have also paid for the group meals. I need to talk to Adam on the Committee about arranging reimbursements, please bare with us while we sort this out. 

The cost of camping is £3per person, per night. I’m not sure they take cards, so please bring cash.

Road Closures

The road past the Roaches are closed, for updates radio Stoke or Stoke Sentinel may be useful.

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Join us for 3 days of fabulous gritstone climbing in the Peak District and find out why many regard it as the home of British rock climbing. To make this an even more special meet we’ll be staying in the highly sought-after Don Whillans Hut in the Roaches – nestled into the cliffs at the base of the crag, this atmospheric hut makes for an excellent lunch time pit stop!

Accommodation:

Spaces are limited to 12 in the Don Whillans hut, so all remaining bookings will stay at another local climbing hut (Roaches Bunkhouse) just 15min walk down the road – less atmospheric, but some have suggested it is the more comfortable choice!

In both accommodation options there will be mattresses; however, no pillows are provided in the Don Whillans hut. Both huts have hot showers and cooking facilities.

Equipment:
Essential:
Sleeping bag (and pillow for the Don Whillans hut)
Harness, rock shoes, belay device
Warm clothes
Waterproofs

Desirable (bring if you have these):
Trad rack, half ropes, single rope
Walking shoes
Boulder mat
Guide books

Skill Level:
This meet is available to all skill and ability levels. There will be plenty of experienced climbers to share their knowledge with newer novice members.

Food:
We will be cooking a group meal on 2 of the 3 nights (included in the price). There will be porridge provided on Sat and Sun morning (also included). Individuals will be responsible for arranging their own food for Friday evening and lunches.

Lastly the club has several good cooks! so its a pretty safe bet the food will be good!!

The Local Environment

Whilst the crags we visit are often quiet, we share the rocks with many other earthlings. Our behaviour is important to minimise our impact on the enjoyment. This includes both the paths to and from the crags as well as on the climbs themselves. Many people are under the impression that rocks don’t wear, but this sadly is not true. Please try to minimize damage to the rocks, e.g keeping your shoes clean, trying not to climb on wet rock, and not using wire brushes.

Many of the Peak district crags are climbed with permission from the landowners. The way climbers are seen to treat the natural environment can hopefully have a positive effect on the perceptions of other people and the landowners. We can help by keeping to footpaths, avoiding damage to vegetation, removing litter, and not leaving chalk tick marks on boulders.

Travel

We shall set up a facebook group nearer the time to help people arrange travel amongst themselves.