Pembrokeshire Sea Cliffs (trad)

Warren Farm, Castlemartin, SA71 5HS

Climbing

The climbing in Pembrokeshire is absolutely idilic for people that appreciate a good sea cliff. The rock is sticky, rough and has good grip. This meet is not for the faint hearted, you will need to be confident and trained at abseiling and trad, it is of course open for those comfortable (and experienced) to second, but make sure you pair up with an experienced climber.

Accommodation

We shall be staying at the familiar Warren Farm, a particularly comfy bunkhouse with running hot waters and shower. There is also a BBQ area outside …. aka small fire pit… which is likely to be where we shall cook the dinner on Saturday night (there is no kitchen).  The bunkhouse is attached to the Farmhouse and the owners are very welcoming to climbers and of course that respect goes two ways.

They have over the past year extended their facilities and there might be the option of an additional bell tent if this proves to be a particularly popular meet. For more information see: http://warrenfarm.wales/our-bunkhouse/

Environmental Information

Much of the land in the area is privately owned and access is gained based on an expectation that people will respect the area. Sustainable access depends on co-existence. Here are a few tips for general good practice and taking care of local nature:

-Do not remove wild plants (including those found on a route e.g. wild flowers – many of these are rare.)

-Protected birds: If you hear obvious „alarm calling‟ birds – retreat from the area. Do adhere to the agreed seasonal bird nesting restrictions, we do look at these before planning a meet and sometimes signs will be posted – if an area is closed for climbers, we must respect this to protect the birds.

-Avoid disturbing seals who may use coves at the base of crags for pupping

-If you are leading a group, take care to minimise your impact on other climbers (talk to them and work around them) as well as the crag environment.

-Do what you can to minimise erosion at the cliff top, especially in the wet.

-Take home all litter, even fruit skins and used toilet paper– try to leave the crag in a better state than you found it.

-Smile a lot – you‟re climbing on some of the best sea cliffs in the world!

for more in depth information there is a conservation guide for climbers:

http://www.pembrokeshireoutdoors.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/PembsGreen-Guide-small-2.pdf

BMC Participation Statement:

In order to be covered by BMC insurance, all meet attendees must read and understand the BMC Participation Statement:

“The BMC recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.”