Swanage Trad Bank Holiday Day 2


10:00 am


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Event Type

Swanage trad offers some of the most exhilarating sea cliff climbing over 16 separate Crags. This SCC meet is over three days with no overnight camping. To comply with covid regulations and to prevent over crowding at these popular venues the number of bookings each day is limited to 12.

Day 1 will be at Subluminal  and the light house cliffs, https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/subluminal_and_lighthouse_cliff-245 and also Cattle Troughs https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/cattle_troughs-251 . Both offer climbing at all states of tide and are tropical on sunny days with southerly or northerly winds. The Venue will be finalised  on the day, in light of weather, tides and numbers, as we assemble at the Durleston Head Car Park  (SW Corner) at 10am.

Both venues are accessed by abseil, although Cattle Troughs can also be reached easily by down climbing.

There are routes for Diff to the mid E grades. All the routes require two 50m 1/2 ropes and the belay is from in-situ stakes. Sea cliffs are serious venues and retreat is often complex. Both venues are however reasonably friendly. All the climbing is single pitch.

The following gear is required by every team, along with an experienced trad leader who is able to use it confidently.

  • 2 1/2 50m+ ropes
  • 4+ 120 cm slings
  • 4+ screwgates
  • 2 prussics (for each climber)
  • A full set of wires, (most of swanage swallows 5’s and 6’s)
  • A small set of hex’s and or a set of Cams.
  • Micro cams are also helpful.
  • 1 X 50m static abseil rope which can be shared amongst teams.

a wind proof layer is essential if the wind is easterly or westerly and for belaying at the top of the routes.

NOTE: High tide is at midday so please avoid tidal venues until late in the afternoon. Cattle Troughs should be avoided in high swell.


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