Hello to our lovely SCC members and welcome to my Summer 2022 update.
Before turning to the summer ahead, it falls upon me to share the heart-breaking news that we lost one of our own in May this year. As many of you know, Richard Dodds was the organisational powerhouse who, as first Club Secretary, set up many of the systems and policies we still use behind the scenes today.
Whilst it is my belief that the club would never have made it off the ground without the vision and determination of Chris, the club’s first President and Richard’s long-term partner - without Richard’s support and encouragement, positive outlook and record-keeping genius, the club may have stayed forever a dream. Therefore, each of us owe Richard a debt of gratitude for the existence of our wonderful club.
If you would like to honour Richard, Chris is running the London Marathon in his name, with sponsorship going towards Age Concern UK - a charity very close to Richard’s heart as a dedicated Geriatrician and researcher into age-related conditions. The Just Giving page can be found here.
Turning to happier events, the summer has got off to a great start with the yearly Cornwall climbing extravaganza – the photos certainly paint a joyful picture of epic climbing, beach BBQs and cream teas. Check out the meet report here. If you couldn’t make it, we will be back next year, so I highly recommend putting some holiday aside now – you will not be disappointed!
A lucky few of you are gearing up to head off to the Peak District, where we've also got some expert training in “Declumsification” of your climbing - from the legend that is Mr Johnny Dawes. I look forward to seeing you show off your amazing footwork technique and hands-free climbing at the next meet ☺
Speaking of which, we have loads coming up – check out the Meets/Events page for a full list, and as always keep an eye on the website and members Facebook group for updates.
The Roaches
Although it was a couple of months ago now, I can’t not mention the huge success of our first ever multi-wall climbing competition. As well as being great fun for members & non-members alike, this also raised £235 in voluntary contributions, which went to the DEC Ukraine Humanitarian Appeal. Many thanks to everyone who took part and congratulations to our winners Lucy (Female 18+), Neil (Male 18+), Abbey (13-17 Female) and Zavi (13-17 male).
I am happy to announce this comp will run again next Spring, so keep tuned for dates. Huge thanks also to our Social Secretaries Sarah and Sophie for organising this excellent event, and to all the walls who supported us - Boulder Shack, Calshot, Golden Gekko, Parthian and Red Spider, you all set some great routes!
In committee news, unfortunately Matt has decided to step down as Meet Coordinator due to other commitments; I am sure you will all join us in saying a big thank you for all his hard work over the past couple of years!
In his stead, Jo will be doubling up on her Gear Sec role and taking over as interim Meet Coordinator, so she is the new point of contact for meet-related business. Thank you, Jo, for volunteering for this busy but exciting role!
If you want to take the bull by the horns and find out about arranging your own meet, get in touch with Jo to discuss your next moves. We've been working behind the scenes to figure out how to make the process of member-organised meets run smoothly, so keep your eyes peeled for further updates on that too.
Have a great summer everyone, hope to see you at the crag soon!
For the first time in a few years SCC headed to the iconic South coast of Pembroke rather than the slabby Northern area. This was met with enthusiasm by all as the Jubilee Bank Holiday weekend was celebrated in climbing style with over 20 members of varying experience making the most of the weather and exquisite rock.
Blue skies and sun saw a range of grades being climbed. Some members still managed to find idyllic slabs with others heading to more serious venues such as Stennis Head and Saddle Head with ascents of various E grades being made.
Blue skies and sun saw a range of grades being climbed.
As with other recent meets various training was on offer and some stoic sport climbers even made their first trad leads. Intimidating classics, such as the 30m sea level travers of Riders on the Storm were tackled by multiple teams. When the sun became too much, well deserved ice cream and socialising at the campsite made a great end to a day.
Although the weather did not remain compliant for the whole trip, this was resolved by visiting as many of the local cafes as possible to sample the various wares which was a welcome change from the heat. A trip to the local pub in the evening was a pleasant ending to a fun filled meet.
Over thirty SCC members made the journey west for our annual Cornwall meet. Yet again we were rewarded with week-long sunshine, turquoise seas, golden granite, and ninja seagulls - we really do have the best luck!
One of the great things about climbing in Cornwall (apart from the cream teas) is the sheer variety on offer. Whilst the amazingly grippy granite is the predominant rock type, there is plenty of niche geology for those seeking a more crimpy experience - killas slate, amphibiolite, and greenstone are all superb. It’s possible to spend the entire day climbing one route, whether that’s enjoying the multi-pitch experiences of Commando Ridge and Lands End Long Climb, or headpointing E-grade testpieces. It’s all there, and more besides - and SCC like to make the most of it!
Over the course of the week we had everything from first trad leads; instructor-led training in multi-pitching and pushing the grade; E3 headpoints (and even an E4 onsight); sunset ascents of Commando Ridge; dawn raids for the cooler conditions; sweaty afternoon epics on Bosigran; big waves at Sennen; little waves at Lands End; and all around us friends and sunshine and seaside.
The water was definitely a welcome refreshment. Teams of swimmers headed out most days - exploring the secluded tidal rock-pools, doing laps at the beach, and jumping around in the surf. When the waves got going, the surfers were out doing their thing; and when the swell subsided an intrepid team of coasteerers journeyed around the cliffs and inlets - including surprising visitors when popping up near the beautiful Minack Theatre.
Of course, no holiday is complete without a good feast too! Cream teas featured high on the agenda, with the amazing Rosemergy’s tea rooms near Bosigran always a popular post-climb refreshment stop. Fish and chips on the beach became fish baps and onion rings after the Sennen chippy inexplicably developed a shortage, but nevertheless good times were had playing games and enjoying the spectacular sunset.
As became our tradition last year (even outside of Cornwall), our morning ‘pasty meet’ was a regular fixture - for some an excuse to actually eat pasties for breakfast! But more generally we've found it a good chance for everyone to share their plans for the day, team up for lift sharing to the crag and buddy up for climbing. (n.b. although a remarkable number of pasties were consumed by SCC, a few lucky seagulls gave us a run for our money too - capitalising on open rucksacks and inattentive eaters... lessons were learned)
All in all, it was another fantastic week! With the hopeful return of the La Frowda festival in 2023 we will definitely be continuing our annual Cornwall pilgrimage.
The sun is shining, the rules are lifting, and we are CLIMBING again! Happy times. I hope you are all doing well and feeling psyched for a soon-to-be summer of climbing adventures.
Before I go on, as this is the first newsletter of the year, I would like to take this opportunity to welcome all of our members into the fold, both new and old - it is great to see so many of you (re)joining SCC, despite the pandemic-style washout that was 2020!* Hopefully we will all get to know each other well over the next few weeks as we start revving up for a much improved 2021.
Whilst overnight stays are still not possible at present (roll on May 17th!) we have already had a great day meet of Sport-tastic fun at Hedbury quarry last weekend, and over the upcoming early May bank holiday weekend we will be setting our sights on the many trad options availabe in Swanage - exact crags TBC and depending on the wind direction (which, as I'm sure you have noticed, has been rather chilly of late)! Further in the future we have a weekend in North Devon planned for the late May bank holiday weekend (accommodation TBC) and several excellent training opportunities in the pipeline which are bound to prove very popular, so sign up asap to avoid disappointment! Keep an eye on the website and of course the members-only facebook group for updates in the coming weeks.
Of course we are not out of the woods yet, so please continue to observe social distancing rules, face-mask wearing and general hygiene considerations whenever you get out climbing, and do remember to keep on top of the ever-changing guidelines (the current BMC guidelines can be found via a link below). Lift-sharing is still not advised, so please be careful to plan your trips to crags where ample parking is available (or arrive early!).
A final note, it will not have escaped your attention that we have a brand new, shiny climbing wall in Southampton (Parthian)! Discussions are underway for a potential club night/discount for SCC members, so keep and eye on the FB group for updates over the next few of weeks.
*considering the restrictions that were in place, we did still manage to have some great meets - particular highlights for me were Cornwall, the Peak District and our first Southern Sandstone meet. I can't wait to revisit these amazing locations over the course of 2021!
~ Colette O'Neill, President.
COVID-19 Guidance
We kindly ask that all members follow our COVID-19 guidance when attending meets, training or socials.
As an affiliated club of the BMC we follow their COVID-19 guidance, full details can be found here.
Upcoming outdoor meets
Your meet secretaries are Kizzy and Matt.
Swanage Trad Weekend - 1st - 3rd May Bank Holiday Weekend (Day 1, Day 2)
North Devon - 28th - 31st May Bank Holiday Weekend
At SCC we want you to get the very best out of your climbing, so throughout the year we have a programme of training events to motivate and educate you!
It's only been about 2 years, but we are so pleased to announce that we have some new club merchandise now available to order now! We have teamed up with Boulder Shack to help in providing on-demand printing on a range of high-quality garments.
More info and access to the shop available to members when logged into the website: SCC Club Merchandise
We have lots of ideas for what else we could do with this, but we'd love to hear your thoughts too!
Recent meets
Hedbury, Swanage
Club Gear
Your Gear Sec is Jo
Don't forget that the club has a stash of gear that members can borrow, not to mention all the guidebooks too in our club Library at Boulder Shack.
As usual, here are the details of the club's weekly indoor sessions, great for socialising and getting a midweek climb in.
Tuesdays at Boulder Shack from approx. 7-9.30pm. Our discounted club night, followed by a trip to the local watering hole, usually The Book Shop (pizza available next door) or The Rockstone.
Thursdays at Calshot from approx 7pm onwards, again with a discount (which in fact is valid any time in Calshot) and a drink/food after in the bar. We'd recommend using the club's Facebook group to check who else is going and coordinate lifts, especially during the winter!
Social Media
Your Web Sec is Simon
All members of SCC have access to the Facebook members only-group. This is a great place to stay in touch with fellow club members, see updates and announcements about club activities, find climbing partners for a visit to the wall/crag/pub, or just share climbing-related news. Feel free to "pitch" in 🙂
If you're having any difficulty joining the group, please let us know by contacting the committee. You can also find us on Instagram, and we have a public Facebook page as well. Give us a follow and share with any mates you think may be interested!
It's that time of year again - the holidays are coming, Kendal Mountain Festival has been filling us with wanderlust & inspiration (psst - there's even some free content on their site here), we're getting stoked ready for the new outdoors season, and we're hoping you can join us too!
New Members
So the important news - Signups for new members for 2021 are live from today - join now and you'll receive membership all the way through to Jan 31st 2022. Simply visit our Membership Page to find out more and sign up.
Current/Returning Members
For our current members, we really hope you've felt like part of the family during this bizarre year. It's been great to see so many involved with the various club activities, and it's been a pretty busy one all things considered - some highlights shared at our AGM last month included:
12 meets (in-between lockdowns)
14 training sessions (5 in-person, 9 online)
25+ online circuits sessions
A whole host of socials, both online & "in real life"
Our first ever(?) photo-of-the-year competition
Not bad for 2020, give yourselves a pat on the back everybody.
We'll have renewals open from 1st January for existing and returning members - details will go up on the Membership Page as normal in the New Year.
You don't need me to tell you this has been a very strange time to be president of our climbing club! Despite the difficulties faced by many of you, I have been overwhelmed by the positivity and creativity shown by our members to keep spirits high. From "pub" quizzes (organised by our fab social secs Jasmin and Sarah, with contributions from various other enthusiastic members) to bi-weekly high energy physical training sessions organised and ran by Paul (our own version of Joe Wicks! 💪), and excellent theoretical training organised by Chris and delivered (free of charge!) by Tim. Not to forget the newly formed SCC Book Club, set up by VP Esther! (This month's book is "Tides" by Nick Bullock - you've got until the 20th July to read it if you want to join in!) - I cannot thank you all enough for working so hard to provide virtual entertainment and learning opportunities for our members. And of course, to everyone who joined in for any of these or other hangout opportunities, massive thanks for getting involved!
Of course now lockdown is easing, we can start to resume our fabulous climbing calendar put together by Kizzy and Paul at the start of the year - and just in time for the planned Cornwall meet! As this was so last minute, we have decided it would work better as a "member organised" meet, as we had no way to know how feasible a club-organised trip would be so soon after re-opening of campsites and other facilities. For those of you who cannot join us due to the short notice, fear not! There is already another trip planned to the Peak District in the calendar, and as the situation becomes clearer over the coming weeks we will start populating your calendars with more awesome trips.
A note of caution, our main aim is to keep all our members safe. So should you or someone in your household feel unwell in the days leading up to a trip, please do not attend. Whilst on a trip, please try to maintain social distance from other people not in your household (e.g. only share a tent with people you live with) and if you decide to car share with people not in your household it is recommended that you sit as far from each other as possible, wear face masks throughout the journey and try to maintain an airflow through keeping windows open a little. Do bring hand gel with you so that you can use it before eating whilst out climbing for the day. Whilst in normal times we welcome novice climbers (providing there are enough experienced climbers available), at the moment we feel it is not possible to maintain a social distance whilst demonstrating skills (e.g. helping to tie in, or making an inexperienced climber safe at the anchor). Therefore until the risk has reduced we would encourage inexperienced members only to attend if a member of their household can take complete responsibility for them whilst climbing.
I am so excited at the prospect of climbing with you all again - although I think my "muscles" are now a shadow of their former selves so it's going to be a struggle - but one I cannot wait to embrace! Stay safe everyone and make the most of the current levels of freedom to make some new good memories.
Upcoming outdoor meets
Your meet sec's are Kizzy and Paul, and they're so happy that meets can start happening again!
We kindly ask that all members follow government rules on social distancing when attending a meet. Please also read the BMC website on what the 4th July changes mean for climbing.
11th - 18th July - Cornwall This will be an informal meet so individuals would be required to book their own accommodation and arrange travel and climbing partner independently. We will be staying at Trevaylor campsite (https://www.cornishcamping.co.uk) from 11th to 18th July, although we appreciate this is a last minute meet, if you wish to join please book directly with the campsite.
Please note: the campsite may fill up quickly so other campsites and accommodation may be available.
7th - 9th August - The Roaches, Peak District Finally, after a long absence from the Western Peaks we're making our return to the Roaches! Booking will open on the website on Wednesday 8th July at 7pm, so get in there quick as this meet is always popular and spaces will be limited. Details available on the outdoor meets page.
15th - 8th August - Lundy This meet is still going ahead for people who booked camping before lockdown through the Landmark Trust, but there will be changes with regard to C-19. These details are due to be released but some of the restrictions are below:
Click & collect system for the shop
Booking time slots for the pub, plus takeaway service
Certain showers assigned to certain 'households'. Unclear how that will apply to camping but we'll see.
We're half way through the year now (how did that happen!), so it's time to slash our membership price in half. If you have any friends or family that are mad on climbing, and would like to join us, do let them know.
At SCC we want you to get the very best out of your climbing, so throughout the year we have a programme of training events to motivate and educate you!
We currently cannot run any group training sessions due to COVID-19 unfortunately, but we are running online training sessions where we discuss a wide range of topics. These are usually on Tuesdays @ 7.30pm, checkout the Facebook page below to get involved and let us know what training you'd like to see in the future.
Recent meets
Scotland Winter Meet It was a tough winter this year, with lots of wind and snow making climbing conditions tricky and the mountains avalanche prone. Nevertheless, everyone stayed safe and were able to fulfil some climbing objectives. Even the skiing conditions were on good form! Scottish winter newcomers were able to learn new skills and tick off their first winter route, whilst the more experienced parties ventured toward less travelled corries in search of icy lines and shelter from the westerlies. Not to mention hunkering down in a bothy and drinking mulled cider. Already looking forward to what this winter brings!
Boulder Shack Tim and the Boulder Shack team have long been supporters of the club, and during lockdown they've been busy making improvements to the wall. Not only do they have a new shop area being filled with Patagonia gear, but a completely revamped kitchen area with pizza oven!
I'm sure that's got everyone excited and licking their lips! They hope to be opening their doors again in the coming weeks.
Club Gear
Don't forget that the club has a stash of gear that members can borrow, not to mention all the guidebooks too in our club Library at Boulder Shack.
All members of SCC should have access to this closed group. If you're having any difficulty joining the group, please let us know by emailing sotonclimb@gmail.com.
Club indoor sessions (once climbing walls re-open)
As usual, here are the details of the club's weekly indoor sessions, great for socialising and getting a midweek climb in.
Tuesdays at Boulder Shack from approx. 7-9.30pm. Our discounted club night, followed by a trip to the local watering hole, usually The Book Shop (pizza available next door) or The Rockstone.
Thursdays at Calshot from approx 7pm onwards, again with a discount (which in fact is valid any time in Calshot) and a drink/food after in the bar. We'd recommend using the club's Facebook group to check who else is going and coordinate lifts, especially during the winter!
As always, please get in touch if you have any feedback about the club or ideas for future activities.
Happy New Year esteemed members of SCC! I am delighted to be welcoming in a new decade of climbing adventures as SCC club president - we have so much to look forward to! But first, I would like to say a massive thank you to the outgoing committee members from 2019 (Emily, Issy, Jon, Marc, Neil, Rob and Ryan) - the club would not be what it is today without all your hard work and enthusiasm. It takes a lot of dedication and energy, not to mention the many lunch times and evenings given over to running SCC, and your efforts were hugely appreciated!
Next, I'd like to extend a warm welcome to the new committee members (Esther, Jo, Kizzy, Mary, Paul, Sarah and Simon); we have just had our first meeting of the year and it was full of brilliant ideas and positive energy - can't wait to see what we achieve over the coming 12 months.
In this newsletter you will find a list of upcoming meets (save the dates!), which will be going live for bookings soon - so keep an eye on the website and/or facebook group. The first meet of the year will be our yearly Winter Meet in Scotland (23rd-29th February) - although the event is fully booked on the website, do not fear: you can still get in contact with the bunkhouse and book yourself a space if you would like to join us (all of the info can be found on the event page). It seems to finally be getting colder (yay!) so I'm hoping I might be able to scratch up my shiny tools at last!
If you are new to climbing outdoors we have a beginners' trip to Dorset coming up in March - these ever-popular day trips will help you transition from climbing on plastic to actual rock in a fun and friendly environment. For the more experienced climbers among you, a number of more advanced training sessions will be available to book soon.
Last but definitely not least, thanks to all of you for your membership and support over the past year - from volunteering to cook on meets, giving lifts, helping with charity events and cleaning huts after use, the club could not run without you. If you are a new member and haven't yet had a chance to meet us, please do get in touch with any of the committee members shown at the bottom of the page - you should spot at least some of us on a Tuesday at Boulder Shack so please do come and say hi. We can't wait to see you all at the wall or crag soon!
-- Colette (President)
Membership renewal
It's that time of year again - membership expires on the 31st January. So what are you waiting for?
Your club membership also gives you BMC club membership, giving you great discounts on shopping, and 3rd party liability insurance (which you need for some crags like Cheddar). You can also upgrade your membership to a full BMC member and gain personal injury cover as well.
Don't forget, if your details have changed, please do update them when you renew so you can receive your club and BMC membership details
Upcoming outdoor meets
Your new meet sec's are Kizzy and Paul. Here's what they've got lined up for you....
At SCC we want you to get the very best out of your climbing, so throughout the year there is a programme of training events to motivate and educate you!
13th February - Lead Climbing & Belaying
15th February - Physical Training for Climbing Workshop
As usual, here are the details of the club's weekly indoor sessions, great for socialising and getting a midweek climb in.
Tuesdays at Boulder Shack from approx. 7-9.30pm, our discounted club night, followed by a trip to the Rockstone after, where members receive a 15% discount!
Thursdays at Calshot from approx 7pm onwards, again with a discount (which in fact is valid any time in Calshot) and a drink +/- food after in the bar. We'd recommend using the club's Facebook group to check who else is going and coordinate lifts, especially during the winter!
As always, please get in touch if you have any feedback about the club or ideas for future activities.
Happy New Year everyone! SCC membership signup for 2020 is now open - you should definitely got to our Membership page to find out more about what's included and join/renew.
Join now and you can maximise your membership right through to 31st Jan 2021. This includes social events, outdoor meets, discounts and subsidised training throughout the season. A much better investment than an unused gym membership!
Any problems please get in touch. But only if they're club related - we can't help with route beta unfortunately. Or the apparent increase in gravity that always seems to follow the holidays 😄
